The Magic Snack of Jaipur




On a balmy December Sunday as I sauntered around the blush corridors of old Jaipur, a waft of asafetida and deep-fried fritters rocked my senses. I followed the aroma and continued walking away from the historic Hawa Mahal. Around 200 metres from that monument, among all the neatly arranged shops, I located the reason for it all - one ‘Sharma Ji and his Kachori shop’.

There he stood in a simple, striped linen shirt and basic pants, catering to at least 30 eager tourists and locals, serving them the exact choices with the right chutney.

Already famished after the daylong heritage walk, the ware he displayed was enough fuel to my hungry soul and three swift orders flew out and all ‘have it there’. A few mildly surprised stares came from my fellow eaters (all men!), but I could not care less.

So here’s what I ordered:

Daal Kachori
Mixed Pakodey
Mawa Kachori

The first from the list was served with green mint and coriander chutney. The imperfect globe was fresh out of the ominous cauldron, piping hot. If my eyes weren’t delusional, I think I saw white steam flying off its surface.

As I bit into the sinful sphere, a crisp crunch emanated as perfect as the first chords of a symphony. You may laugh it off thinking this is the writer exaggerating, but you weren’t there, were? You did not taste the little piece of spice heaven that I had.

Like all kachoris, the filling of the pastry was a mish-mash of spices and Moong Daal and the blend was how it should be, grainy, but not lumpy. The zesty chutney struck the right balance; the strength of asafetida in the Kachori vis-à-vis the herby freshness of the chutney.

It was time for a plateful of crazily shaped fritters, popularly known as Pakodey. Onion, chilli, cauliflower, potato, coriander, you name it and you get it, and boy, I got my plate of tiny taste bombs. Taking in the eclectic flavours, my mind went into a tizzy. The experience was akin to those moments from life when a multitude of emotions coincidentally hit us at the same time. Nothing makes sense and yet we feel each sentiment distinctly. Is this euphoria, I wondered?

The masala pangs now satiated, I eyed the sweet bit. Sharma Ji’s experienced eyes caught me and with hint of a smile, handed me a Mawa kachori. Saccharine happiness oozed from each bite. It was rich and nutty. The Khoya-Mawa filling was satiny and melted away in the mouth.

It was time for me to move on. I paid for the food, thanked the maker of the magic and started my walk towards the City Palace. I have visited Jaipur uncountable times and each time, it welcomed me with a surprise that has gone down with a bookmark in my diary.

Yet again, the Pink joy of this splendid city soothed the brazen nerves of a Delhiite. Be it a quest for history or culinary delights, Jaipur will delight you every step of your way and stay.

Something was strange, I noticed. People around me were amusedly pointing at me. I snapped out of the gastronomic rhapsody, to realize that my hand was making quick dips inside the brown bag and taking out bits of the Mawa Kachori and stuffing it in my mouth, which, in its own right, was upturned in a fixed smile (not to mention the crumbs that adorned my jaws). The onlookers could not help but smile at this adult-turned-child who had experienced a fair for the first time 😊😊

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